This study aims to explore the effects of pinch holds` width on the mechanics and muscle activity characteristics of the pinch technique in sport climbing. 22 climbers completed maximum gripping or pinching biomechanic test of a jug hold and two pinch holds with different width. The resultant traction force, traction force components, the utilization ratio of traction forces and root mean square (RMS) amplitude of the electromyography (EMG) signals of upper limb muscles were collected. Compared to the jug, traction force decreased by 6%-19% when using the broad pinch and 31%-46% with the narrow pinch (all P < 0.05). The RMS of the pectoralis major, biceps brachii, and latissimus dorsi showed the pattern: jug > the broad pinch > the narrow pinch (all P < 0.05). Traction force utilization at the broad pinch was 21%-62% higher than at the narrow (all P < 0.05). Holds` width is a significant factor in the biomechanical characteristics of pinching technique for climbers.
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