The connection between resistance training, climbing performance, and injury prevention
(Der Zusammenhang zwischen Krafttraining, Kletterleistung und Verletzungsprävention)
Key Points
- Altering the mechanical and metabolic stress, by using different intensities or varying the number of repetitions and sets, and training frequency per week are the most significant variables in manipulating the overall training volume and the variables requiring emphasis in planning incorporation of resistance training (RT) in climbers.
- Structured low-volume training at high resistance, twice per week, is a feasible approach to RT in climbers.
- The following classifications are proposed in climbing: > 15 reps (or hang time > 30 s) strength endurance bias; 8-15 RM (or 3-30 s hang time) hypertrophic bias; 1- 5 RM (or 1-5 s hang time) maximal strength bias.
- Improving maximal finger and shoulder girdle strength may decrease injury risk; as a result of reducing percentage of maximum strength generated in each move, the overall loading stress in a session is also diminished.
- Upper body RT programs have proven efficient for improving performance in climbing-specific tests among lower- and intermediate-grade climbers, but whether this training approach may improve climbing performance among advanced or elite climbers remains to be elucidated.
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| Schlagworte: | |
|---|---|
| Notationen: | Biowissenschaften und Sportmedizin Kraft-Schnellkraft-Sportarten |
| Tagging: | Griff Finger Fingerkraft |
| Veröffentlicht in: | Sports Medicine - Open |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| Veröffentlicht: |
2024
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| Online-Zugang: | https://doi.org/10.1186/s40798-024-00677-w |
| Jahrgang: | 10 |
| Heft: | 10 |
| Dokumentenarten: | Artikel |
| Level: | hoch |