The mechanics of a climbing fall with a belayer who can be lifted

(Die Mechanik eines Sturzes beim Klettern mit einem Sichernden, der hochgehoben werden kann)

In sport climbing, a common method of belaying is to use a static rope brake attached to the belayer`s harness, but the belayer can move freely. This paper investigates the dynamics of a climbing fall with such a belayer. The dynamics are nontrivial because of the belayer`s constraint to be always at or above his initial position. An exact solution for a linear elastic rope is presented. Compared to a fix-point belay, one obtains a considerable force reduction on the belay-chain. However, there is a trade-off of a longer stopping distance of both climber and belayer. In order to calculate the stopping distance, friction between rope and the top carabiner has been taken into account. Closed-form formulas allow for calculating the maximum impact force, as well as the minimum mass of the belayer which is necessary to hold a fall from a certain height.
© Copyright 2022 Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part P: Journal of Sports Engineering and Technology. SAGE Publications. Alle Rechte vorbehalten.

Bibliographische Detailangaben
Schlagworte:
Notationen:technische Sportarten Naturwissenschaften und Technik
Tagging:Sturz
Veröffentlicht in:Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part P: Journal of Sports Engineering and Technology
Sprache:Englisch
Veröffentlicht: 2022
Online-Zugang:https://doi.org/10.1177/1754337121992616
Jahrgang:236
Heft:3
Seiten:151-158
Dokumentenarten:Artikel
Level:hoch