The mechanics of a climbing fall with a belayer who can be lifted
(Die Mechanik eines Sturzes beim Klettern mit einem Sichernden, der hochgehoben werden kann)
In sport climbing, a common method of belaying is to use a static rope brake attached to the belayer`s harness, but the belayer can move freely. This paper investigates the dynamics of a climbing fall with such a belayer. The dynamics are nontrivial because of the belayer`s constraint to be always at or above his initial position. An exact solution for a linear elastic rope is presented. Compared to a fix-point belay, one obtains a considerable force reduction on the belay-chain. However, there is a trade-off of a longer stopping distance of both climber and belayer. In order to calculate the stopping distance, friction between rope and the top carabiner has been taken into account. Closed-form formulas allow for calculating the maximum impact force, as well as the minimum mass of the belayer which is necessary to hold a fall from a certain height.
© Copyright 2022 Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part P: Journal of Sports Engineering and Technology. SAGE Publications. Alle Rechte vorbehalten.
| Schlagworte: | |
|---|---|
| Notationen: | technische Sportarten Naturwissenschaften und Technik |
| Tagging: | Sturz |
| Veröffentlicht in: | Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part P: Journal of Sports Engineering and Technology |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| Veröffentlicht: |
2022
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| Online-Zugang: | https://doi.org/10.1177/1754337121992616 |
| Jahrgang: | 236 |
| Heft: | 3 |
| Seiten: | 151-158 |
| Dokumentenarten: | Artikel |
| Level: | hoch |