Effect of hold sloper angle and hold depth on maximal finger force capacity of rock climbers

(Auswirkungen der Hangneigung und Grifftiefe auf die maximale Fingerkraftleistung von Sportkletterern)

The purpose of this study was to identify the combined effect of sloper angle and hold depth on maximal finger force capacity (MFFC) of rock climbers. Eight experienced climbers performed vertical maximal finger contractions on four different size of holds (1, 2, 3 and 4 cm) with five different sloper angles from 0° to 40° (with 10° increment). The results of this study showed that mean MFFC ranged from 25.2 ± 4.1 kg to 49.1 ± 9.0 kg and differed significantly according to the sloper angle and hold depth. Besides, decreasing the hold depth and increasing the sloper angle of a hold leads to a fall of the MFFC. These results confirm the previous findings of hold depth effect and improve them for sloper holds by pointing out the interaction between hold depth and slope angle.
© Copyright 2015 ISBS - Conference Proceedings Archive (Konstanz). Springer. Veröffentlicht von International Society of Biomechanics in Sports. Alle Rechte vorbehalten.

Bibliographische Detailangaben
Schlagworte:
Notationen:Ausdauersportarten Biowissenschaften und Sportmedizin
Tagging:Finger Griffkraft
Veröffentlicht in:ISBS - Conference Proceedings Archive (Konstanz)
Sprache:Englisch
Veröffentlicht: Poitiers International Society of Biomechanics in Sports 2015
Online-Zugang:https://ojs.ub.uni-konstanz.de/cpa/article/view/6511
Jahrgang:33
Heft:1
Seiten:761-763
Dokumentenarten:Kongressband, Tagungsbericht
Level:hoch